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February 2017

01 February 2017.

February already?

Well last nights sunset was a fizzer thanks to the cloud that had thickened but we did enjoy the sound of the waves on the beach as our heads hit the pillow and a cool ocean breeze caressed us off to sleep.

The sky started off reasonably clear this morning but as the day progressed more cloud came in keeping the temperature nice but also the humidity.

The sunset was nice but no cloud meant it was not the dramatic shot that could have been. The moon and light across the water however, were a nice sight out of the bedroom window.

The moon lit up the ocean nicely.

02 February 2017

Joanne was up early again today and her walk along the beach provided some nice photos.

The sky begins to light up.

The walk back. Wet feet anyone?

06 February 2017

With only 72 hours allowed at Cliff Head (including the other sites in the area) in each 28 days, our time came to a close on Friday. Of course we could have stayed longer but the Shire that this beautiful spot sits in is slowly but surely closing the free camps down and turning them in to either timed spots, or attaching a fee to staying there, and it is using the Ranger to enforce the rules.

Heading out we made our way to Lancelin where we had arranged to meet friends Robert and Julie who were on their maiden voyage with their new MDC Jackson Forward Fold Camper. After checking into the Lancelin Caravan Park driving through and getting to the ocean side camping area was fun as we dodged the overhead tree branches which really do need to be cut back to save damage to peoples rigs.

Our site was on a double grass strip nestled between holiday shacks and just a sand dune away from the ocean. The sites are very wide but short and so it was necessary for us to un-hitch so as not to poke out onto the roadway.

Robert and Julie arrived and set up their new rig as we sat and watched, helping with a few things if they asked but basically leaving it to them to learn, and find their way.

Saturday was an easy day, with the first job being the awning set up which went well and was quite quick. Later, and a walk along the beach was very pleasant as we watched the kite surfers rip across the ocean using the exceptionally strong sea breeze to propel themselves along. Back at camp, other campers came in and it was great to see them all looking and pointing at Robert and Julie's camper, and even coming over to check it out and to pass very complimentary comments.

Sunday was a slow start and then it was time to pack up and head out. The camper was dismantled and we re-hitched and packed up ready for the road before we all checked out and headed off in separate directions, Robert and Julie back home and us off to Dandaragan again.

This morning we packed up and headed off after a pleasant stop in Dandaragan, but before we hit the road we received a call from Les at the Mandurah Caravan Repair Centre telling us our replacement stove still hadn't left Dometic yet and so it would hopefully be here by the end of the week. So it looks like we have a few more days to tour around or we might just plonk somewhere.

Stopping for a look at the Rest Area at Regans Ford we found No Camping signs everywhere and so continued on to the old school site at Wannamal where we first camped on our cycle ride around Australia and in our motorhome AJ since.

13 February 2017

Our camp at Wannamal was uneventful and in the morning we packed up and moved on. Heading into York we took a detour and ended up heading down a road that turned into a mud bath, turning the rig we cleaned in Dandaragan into a muddy mess. Stopping for the rest of the ay at York we enjoyed the great little free camp right next to the river one street back from the main street.

Heading off the next morning we left the countryside and entered the urban jungle, eventually parking on our son's front lawn where we spent quite a few hours cleaning the mud off. So it looks like we will be here for a while to await our replacement stove, which should be here this week. We have been enjoying the ability to catch up with family, and getting excited about our eldest granddaughter Kimberley getting engaged. The weather however has not been as exciting with floods in many area's, including we reckon our camp spot in York.

14 February 2016

A call from Les at the Mandurah Caravan Repair Centre informing us that our replacement stove had finally arrived meant that we were about to get back on the road again. Dropping the house off for the stove replacement we spent some time with our friends the Polmears at their house before heading back to pick the house up.

The stove was fitted just fine, gas tested and certified it was all ready to go. Les told us the story of the new replacement stove being damaged when they opened the box and the small battle he had had to swap the warranty claim over to a stove they already had in the shop. Seems Dometic didn't understand the urgency of getting the stove replaced and wanted to send another, but, thanks to Les, it was sorted out and we were on our way. Thank you Les and the Mandurah Caravan Repair Centre, your blood is worth bottling.

Eager to get going we made our way out to Pinjarra where there is a free camp near the railway. Arriving to find a camper already in we selected a spot and set up camp. A chat with the other camper meant we met Tracy and Wayne. They are full time on the road like us and were exploring WA, and waiting for a call to tell them the twins had been born and they were grandparents again.

Joanne and Tracy walked into town across the suspension bridge that normally sits high above the Murray River that runs through the town, but after all of the rain the river was quite swollen with minor flooding closing off the park and BBQ's.

The bridge over the swollen river.

Four other campers came in and set up camp and we enjoyed happy hour (till 8pm) with Tracy and Wayne. We had a chat with the ranger who came through to record the number plates and he told us that the town is trying to get the camp as a 72hr rest stop rather than the current 24hrs, but Council is battling a business or two regarding this.

15 February 2017

A few trains through the night but nothing to worry about and we awoke to a nice day. We said good bye to Tracy and Wayne as they headed off to explore Perth and we made our way the Boddington.

The Boddington 48 hr free camp is a small area at the bottom end of town and we arrive to find we were first in. The Hotham River that the camp sits next to was also swollen, minor flooding along the bank, but still a long way down from where we were camped.

The Hotham River Boddington

By the time we went to bed there were three other campers in with us. One of the campers had a very new Paramount Utility which was long enough to have it's own postcode. They set up near the oval and the extended grass and rose garden that forms part of the War Memorial Garden, and by the morning they had moved courtesy of the sprinkler caravan wash.

16 February 2017

We packed up and headed off to Pumphreys Bridge where we will be staying for the weekend, and where we will be joined by Bob and Julie in their camper trailer and Kim and Carolyn in their Winnebago.

On the way we were noticing the dirt across the road and the farmers fences full of sticks and debris. We knew that they had had a bit of rain out this way and were somewhat surprised at the amount.

Arriving at Pumphreys Bridge we found the place empty and the signs of the river having flooded part of the area we like to camp. The ground was dry but covered in a dry layer of river mud. Investigating a spot where the three of us could set up we eventually decided leave the idea go to Yornaning Dam to see if it would be better.

Some 40 odd kilometres later we arrived at Yornaning Dam where there is still a sign that is open to interpretation. It doesn't say no camping, but it doesn't say you can't. Something about this area not being a camping area or caravan park and then offering the local caravan park to those who may wish to stay in the area. We stopped for lunch and watched a motorhome leave before heading back to Pumphreys Bridge.

On arrival we elected to camp on the old cricket/footy oval just up on the road level behind the local CWA Hall, and also found the motorhome that had left the dam had made its way here as well.

17 February 2017

A peaceful night ended with a Kookaburra Alarm clock around 5am and as they flew away we rolled over for some more sleep, snuggled up on what was the coolest night we have had for a while.

The motorhome left as did the caravan that had decided to camp down at the river and we have settled in for the day to await Bob and Julie who will be here after lunch, and Kim and Carolyn tomorrow.

Bob and Julie turned up and after they had set their camper trailer up in the shade of the trees we sat around enjoying the day and each others company.

18 February 2017

Woke to another clear day where we enjoyed breakfast in the old Cricket Pavilion sat around chatting. Kim, Carolyn and Diesel the dog turned up and set up and we then spent the day together. A short walk, a couple of little jobs filled in the day before an evening meal and then some night photography on the bridge trying to get good star shots and reflections of stars in the river below.

Back at camp we spent some time using a couple of app's on the iPad to view and find stars, constellations and other heavenly bodies before we all retired for the night.

19 February 2017

Waking to a much warmer day we enjoyed breakfast in the sun as it beamed into the front of the cricket pavilion. Some chats about various trips (future and present) we all packed up and headed off.

We turned towards Corrigin where we had lunch before making our way through Ainsworth and Arden to Bruce Rock. Pulling into town we inspected our handywork at the CBH site and discovered the grain that we had brought in and stacked had been outloaded yet. We thought about pulling up in our usual spot on site but decided to enjoy the 48hr free camp at the other end of town.

After filling up with fuel (1.299 c/l) we made our way to the camp spot opposite the caravan park. Being the only ones here we had the choice of spots, and of course we picked the one where the tv satellite signal was through a tree! We tried the couple of feet shuffle forward and back to see if we could miss it but had no luck, so with the temperature in the mid 30's we had the best spot for the breeze and decided to forgo the tv and enjoy the cool breeze as it came through the nearby bush instead.

20 February 2017

Another pleasant night in Bruce Rock, breaky and then we were on the road again. Passing through the now bare paddocks it was fun to know that the crops were there are now where we put them onsite, and seeing the farmers names on their gates brought back faces and memories of the last couple of seasons.

In and out of Merredin we made our way towards Kalgoorlie, stopping in Southern Cross for morning tea. Back out onto the highway which seemed to be very bumpy and in need of some roadwork's. And roadwork's we found! Widening of the highway to install overtaking lanes started just before the Ghooli pumping station with another eight or so between there and Kalgoorlie. Each set of works was one to two kilometres long, were just wide enough to pass a truck coming the other way and of course with a speed limit of 60km/h it was a convoy behind us as we stuck to the speed limit.

Arriving in Kalgoorlie we found our way to the 24hr Free Camp where three caravans and another Winjana 5th Wheeler were parked. Stopping in our usual spot we decided to move closer to the gravel in case the forecast storm tonight dumped on the red earth we were parked on. Bogged in Kalgoorlie would be embarrassing now wouldn't it?

The clouds began to form up and with the mercury tipping 37 degrees and the humidity high we were looking forward to a change in the weather. In the meantime more campers came in and there was also the chance to go and chat with the owner of the other Winjana 5th Wheeler in the camp.

The Catti 830 is longer than our rig and has a bedroom on the floor rather than over the hitch like ours. Seems they had bought their rig the same month we did. They are on the road full time but don't go off road because their rig is not made for it.

21 February 2017

The change in the weather did come last night but not as we expected. The wind came up after dark and there were sheets of red dirt blowing through the place, looking like rain as it passed under the nearby street lights, then sometime during the night there was the pitter patter of rain on the roof.

We awoke to a cool morning and a cloudy sky. Heading into town after breakfast we topped up our water and then did some food shopping before topping up the fuel tank and heading out of town.

Back in the land of the salmon gum's and salt bush the kilometres passed easily, changes in scenery going from salmon gums and salt bush which blocked the wind to open salt bush country and back again. Some more roadwork's to deal with and a very talkative lollipop man had us waiting for a few minutes and then we were on our way.

Passing some large salt lakes off in the distance and then before we knew it we were in the small town of Menzies. A small town in the middle of nowhere it's sandstone buildings and old world charm make it look very nice. A short pit stop allowed us to stretch our legs before we continued on our way.

Turning off the highway we easily covered the 14 or 18 km's (depending on which sign you believe) and eventually found ourselves a nice spot at Niagara Dam where we have camped before, albeit some years ago. There is a camp ground below the dam wall but with only one other camper in our old spot at the top overlooking the water, we opted not to squeeze in and took another spot nearby.

Setting up camp in a strong wind and a welcoming committee of about 10,000 flies we settled in for lunch and the rest of the day. With luck there will be a nice sunset which will light up the colours of the rock that surrounds the dam itself.

Well the light was not what I imagined, but the view was still pretty nice.

22 February 2017

A disappointing sunset for photography last night but the night itself was quiet and peaceful, and we awoke this morning to a cool 15 degrees, something we haven't had for a while.

Back on the road we were aiming for Laverton and somewhere beyond. Arriving in the Living Ghost Town (is that an oxymoron?) of Kookynie. There are just a few buildings, residents and lots of signs and plaques denoting where certain important buildings once stood.

Arriving in Laverton we filled up with fuel ($1.699 c/l) and paid a visit to the visitors centre to obtain our permits to travel the Great Central Road before heading out of town for lunch, downloaded the Outback Way Interpretive App for the phone and to let some air out of the tyres. Permits in hand we commenced our trip on the 3 days allowed to travel the Western Australian part of the Great Central Road.

12km out of town the bitumen ended and the dirt began with light corrugations. We were travelling along nicely at 80km/h on an excellent road surface, slowing only for the occasional stretch of deeper corrugations, small bitumen causeways that crossed the creeks and eventually small dirt washouts when the causeways ceased.

Coming across an Outback Way Sign with an arrow we turned off the road and took the short track for a look at the Deba Gnamma Hole, as it sits covered with a piece of corrugated iron, the only clue that it was actually there

Back on the road we continued on to the Giles (Jindalee) Breakaways where they sit in the 348,750 square kilometres of the Great Victorian Desert, the seventh largest desert in the world.

The Giles Breakaways from the viewing/camping area.

Such a beautiful spot, the total silence was deafening and combined with a view that stretched forever we really did feel that we really were in the middle of nowhere. We would normally have camped here and the colour of the rock formations would have been nice at sunset, but to comply with the 3 days allowed to travel to the WA/NT Border on our permit, and not wanting to have a huge day tomorrow we moved on.

The white surface was a tad bright after the usual red dirt.

Wide and smooth.

Slightly narrower and more gravel on the surface.

An easy drive at 80km/h on cruise control.

The terrain so far has been fairly flat and mostly mulga bush, native grasses and spinifex. The road, other than the odd climbing up and over or through the sand dunes that the road mostly follows between, was flat, and sometimes seeming like we were driving along a creekbed. Beautiful white ghost gums stood out against the landscape as they stood in a spinifex bed mostly where often were we climbed or crossed the dunes, or passed over a creekbed washout.

No far from the end of our days drive we climbed some more dunes with their red sand covered in the usual spinifex, and as we crested on a new piece of road we could see a range off to the left which we took as the Gladys Range, and the Virginia Range on the right, both along way off in the distance.

After 215 kilometres from Laverton (and counting 64 car and 1 caravan wrecks on the side of the road) found ourselves a nice spot for the night out the back of a truck parking area (2"44'29.9S, 124"03'41.7E) not far from the Eurothurra Rockholes.

Our first campsite on the GCR.

23 February 2017

Such a peaceful night in the bush and we awoke early to another big blue sky. Checking the rig last night before sunset we noticed one of the tyres on the house had a tech screw in it and so fixing that was the first task for today, and it is good that we have a tyre plug kit and air compressor onboard.

Tyre fixed we enjoyed breakfast and then checked the tyre again before heading off. 15 km's later we came to a place called White Cross, named for the White Cross that had been erected by the Rev Ron Williams back in 1991. We pulled over and walked the short way up to the breakaway where the cross is mounted. Underneath the breakaway are a couple of caves with what is supposed to be Aboriginal Art. Certainly not the best we have seen, but significant to someone.

Cave 1

Cave 2

Looking North towards Lake Throssell The two caves are on the left, the Cross and then our rig.

Leaving White Cross the terrain becomes an open Savannah where the Easterly wind reduced our fuel economy as we made our way across the mostly open ground.

Passing along the road and counting more dead vehicles we spotted something large on the side of the road and as we neared, we spotted another on the other side. Okay, which one is going to run which way? And then with a roar, this guy took off to join his mate across the road.

Turns out this was one of three, and this one was heading for the safety of numbers.

Camel Dash over we were still counting cars when more large objects appeared on the side of the road, and this time there were lots of them.

We selected N and coasted in as close as we could, trying not to startle them and getting photos at the same time.

And then the peak hour traffic took an off ramp and the road cleared...

We were nearing the Tjukayirla (pronounced chook-a ler a) Roadhouse and 4 kilometres out we met the bitumen. The Tjukayirla Roadhouse was established in 1994 and is owned by the nearby Blackstone community. Inside there are basic supplies, fast food to die for (apparently) and plenty of photos on the walls showing vehicles of all sizes in floodwaters, bogs and other predicaments.

Tjukayirla Roadhouse.

Getting fuel served by a young lady backpacker from Chile.

Having fuelled up and checked out the sights in the roadhouse we were on our way, enjoying another 4 kilometres of bitumen, some of which also serves as an RFDS Landing Strip.

Back on the dirt we were passing through more rolling plains dominated by spinifex, grasses, mulga woodlands and the occasional feature tree.

Following the bumpiest part of the road yet as it makes its way up and over the sand dunes in this area.

We stopped to inspect a camping area at the top of some breakaways before heading on another 20 odd km's to the Desert Breakaways and Gnamma Hole, where we set up camp not far from the road and near the breakaway. Today's dead car count - 52.

Our camp spot from the top of the breakaway.

The breakaways from our camp spot.

Found this little cave while walking around the base looking for a way to the top.

24 February 2017

Sitting in the cool of the evening as the sun dipped below the horizon and the stars came out to play there were more vehicles passing up and down the GCR than we had seen since we started.

Waking this morning to another big blue sky we packed up and headed NE once more. Our camp was opposite a Gnamma Hole which sits beside the road with the bush equivalent of a pool fence over the top of it.

The Gnamma Hole and bush equivalent of a pool fence.

More good dirt road to traverse but maintaining speed was a small issue as the High Pressure system in the Great Australian Bight moved East and provided us with head or side winds depending on which way the road turned.

We were again passing over grassy plains with some ranges way off in the distance. We also noticed how the road was more often than not dead straight courtesy of re-alignments which were backed up on the GPS, our GPS track showing we were not on the road but in the bush.
We were again counting dead cars and also on the lookout for the burnt out low loader with an equally burnt out 4wd on the back, but we didn't see it. Maybe it has been removed or it is on one of the old bits of road we we have bypassed it.

We were also looking for two entrances to the Connie Sue Highway which were supposed to be visible, and we found neither. There were many tracks leading off into the bush and at one of the supposed junctions there was nothing but a drain. Added to the fact that they are really just two wheel tracks through the landscape, neither of them are sign posted because, according to the man in the Shire Office come Visitor Information Centre at Warburton, people keep pinching them. We did however find the Heather Hwy which takes you up to the old Gunbarrel Highway blazed through the bush by Len Beadell and his band of merry men. It was not only sign posted, but was not far from the start of the bitumen that leads you most of the way into Warburton, and it was here that we got mobile phone reception for the first time since leaving Laverton.

The Junction of the Heather Highway and the GCR.

We stopped for a photo and to read the text messages that came booming in before heading the rest of the way to Warburton, crossing the Elery Creek just before town. The bitumen ended short of town and then the only sealed roads were into the community itself, and around the Warburton Roadhouse.

Elery Creek and the approach to Warburton.

Coming into the locality of Warburton the only places you are allowed to go without permission and a permit are the roadhouse and the Shire Office/Visitor Information Centre. Pulling up to the fuel pumps in their protective cages there were signs everywhere informing of video surveillance and the prohibition of photography. Lots of locals indigenous were all over the place, their vehicles often looking as bad as the wrecks we had been passing along the road. One particular vehicle stood out though as the old man driving it pulled up. No lights, no mirrors, no windscreen, no windows and no rear window, making it a real flash vehicle, and the man driving it the envy of others. We just wish we could have got a photo.

Walking inside the roadhouse to ask for fuel was interesting, and just as busy as outside. The locals all shopping in there for fast food, smokes and soft drinks, and even paying for fuel. Lining up after a nice old Aboriginal man, his dark weather beaten face covered with a grey beard quite the contrast, and testament to the fact that he was outside a lot.

The young man who came out to serve the fuel turned out to be from Melbourne and we joked about the difference in the two places. He and his family were here to run the roadhouse and I think he secretly wished he was back in Victoria. Fuel was $2.06 per litre and there was a surcharge on the use of a credit card to pay for it.

After topping up with fuel we drove around and parked up at the Shire Office for a trip to the visitors centre and to catch up with the world electronically.

Leaving town we were on the roughest bit of road we have been on for some time. Slowly and carefully navigating our way along we passed a tent city where the well to do have a tent and the others sleep on bed frames or mattresses on the ground in amongst the dust, their belongings spread all over the place and all of it open to the mercy of the elements. We were not sure what this area was but surmised it may be the naughty corner as it was away from the community and the houses.

Eventually the road and the scenery improved, the greenery courtesy of good recent rains was just amazing. We initially thought that it was green and highlighted by our sunglasses but no, it was real.

The red and green outback.

The road remained good though the creeks and washouts were a little harder and meant slowing down for. They were dry but the rocky ground was not to be taken at speed. The road even turned white for a period and the crushed white gravel was as much a contrast against the green as the red that proceeded it.

23km's out of Warburton we passed a rock with a plaque on it. This was the location of Tim's Tree. There is no longer a tree there but just a table and chairs and the rock with the plaque in memory of Tim Ballinger (1971-92) No other information available and even the Outback Way App doesn't even know who Tim Ballinger was. So maybe there is some research to be done.

Some 90 kilometres after leaving Warburton we came up a rise and turned off into a sandy track that led us to the Yarla Kujtarra Rest Area. Sandy enough for the use of 4wd we made our way in through the tall grass for about half a kilometre and arrived at a fairly large area with a small shelter, interpretive sign and the wreck of an old tractor in the middle, and a long drop toilet was off to one side.

We drove around the area and selected a spot that was level and set up camp near a large tree which would provide some shade. This spot was suggested to us by the lady in Laverton who issued us our permits to travel the GCR. We were also surprised to find that we had some phone signal here, though being 90km's from Warburton and 131km from the Warakurna Roadhouse we can only suppose we are getting some signal from the Jamison (Mantamaru) Community some 20 odd km's away.

Just before sunset a car came in and two men set up camp not far from us. One was an Australian the other his brother in law from Lithuania.

25 February 2017

A quiet night with no ambient light so the starts really stood out against the black sky. We awoke to find another vehicle set up not too far from us with a tent next to it, but nobody around. The two men that had come in first had already departed by the time we were getting up and so we left with the occupants of the tent still in bed.

One of many rockholes along the route and easily found by use of a GPS.

It was pretty much the same as the last two days as we traversed the countryside, the only changes being vegetation and or the road surface, which was still good, and we did see a young Dingo as it ran across the road and into the bush to watch us drive by. Of course things were slightly harder to see with the sun in our face and of course the wind was still actively trying to increase our fuel consumption, the bushy areas the only respite from its attack.

We had plotted two parts of the original Gunbarrel Highway on the GPS and it was a god job we had. There was nothing but a track leading off in another direction when we got there, and the same at the other end some 5 kilometres later.

Coming off the old Gunbarrel Highway as it intersects with the GCR

The first of many ranges comes into view as two vehicles speed ahead of us.

We pulled into Warakurna and went to the roadhouse opposite the Police Station. Fuel pumps were again caged up and other than the Police Station, motel rooms (donga's) and some houses there was not much to be seen. Fuel was $2.40 per litre so even our meager half a tank was over $100. Leaving the fuel stop we made our way up the bitumen road to the Giles Metrological Centre which funnily enough is up a dirt road. The site of which was selected by Len Beadell and set in 1956 up as part of the Atomic Testing after World War 2.

The old Met Office is now just a set of ancillary buildings to the new, but they do hold a museum within their walls

In days gone by you used to be able to go and see the Weather Balloon launch but apparently the staff have been cut back and now this is not possible.

One of the graders Len Beadell used as part of his Gunbarrel Construction Company. And it still smells of diesel and grease.

Some original Len Beadell and Gunbarrel Construction plaques are also housed in this cage, replaced with replicas at their original locations to avoid being stolen .

We left the Met Buildings and took the bitumen road up the hill to where we were opposite the new facility, its golf ball on top of a stick housing the radar and out front the usual weather instruments except for the most technical one we now of - a rock on a string.

View of the Rawlinson Range which the people in the new Giles Met Office get to look at all day.

As there is an Aboriginal Community at the end of the bitumen, and we didn't have a permit to visit we turned around and stopped for a look at another Len Beadell marker as we headed out of town. Mobile phone range was available at Warakurna and so we quickly caught up on the electronic world and continued on our way.

A close up of the plaque at Warakurna.

Leaving Warakurna and Giles we made our way back out onto the Gunbarrel Highway/Great Central Road as it is named through these parts, mainly because the Gunbarrel was the first road and now the GCR has taken over.

Turning off at the Giles Mulga Park Road we took a side track which was part of the original Gunbarrel Highway. Following the narrow, grass lined, sandy based track we arrived at a junction where there was a nice stand of Desert Oaks, and where there is an original Len Beadell marker post.

Part of the old Gunbarrel Highway we had come up after turning off the GCR .

Our lunch stop at the marker junction.

Old grader blades under the tree made us wonder if they were left over from the Gunbarrel Construction Party led by Len Beadell. Straight ahead is the Gunbarrel back to the GCR, to the right is the continuance of the Giles-Mulga Park Rd which heads South East towards Surveyor Generals Corner at the intersection of WA, NT and SA. Follow it long enough and you will find the Stuart Highway just North of Marla and the Oodnadatta Track.

The post, possibly a Desert Oak Trunk seems to be an original, but the plaque is a replica.

All of Len's original plaques have been replaced to avoid theft. Some of the originals are in the cage at Giles with the grader.

A close up of the plaque.

Heading back out to the GCR along the old Gunbarrel

Desert Oaks line the road for a few kilometres not far from Giles Creek.

Closer and closer to the Border as we follow the Schwerin Mural Crescent
(why it is a Crescent and not a range we don't know).

The sign says it all, but where the heck is Schwerin?

Enjoying the shade of the Ghost Gum with Len Beadell's Sandy Blight Junction plaque in it opposite the Gill Pinnacle.

The plaque at the Sandy Blight Junction.

Leaving Western Australia (and the good road)

Half a km up the road from the WA Border sign is the NT sign.

Not far past the NT Border sign the road turned into this sandy mess.

A few more kilometres we came to our camp for tonight, but not after more soft sand and some low range 4wd work. Pulling into the camp we found a number of sites and tin toilets scattered amongst the Desert Oak trees but thankfully with a nice hard packed red base. We selected a spot in the shade and set up camp as it was too hot to be out in the sun for the solar panels on the roof to work. Setting up the portable panels out in the sun meant that we still had power coming in for the batteries.

26 February 2017

We enjoyed a peaceful but broken nights sleep, though we were not sure why. So, being awake early it was a good chance to try some early morning photography. Hoping to avoid the flies stepping outside was met with not only flies, but their mates the mozzies as well!

The early morning was spectacular with the pink, orange and blue hues in the sky.

Packed up and leaving camp we again used 4wd to get through the sand and up the small rise that brought us to the turn off to the Docker River Aboriginal Community. Not far on was some nice new bitumen for a kilometre or two as it took us to the Docker River itself. Crossing the concrete causeway was easy and the river still had some pools in it to admire the reflection of the trees in.

Part of the range that runs behind the Docker River Community.

Back on the hard packed red sand we were enjoying the view of the ranges on either side of the road, and of course there were many stops for that must have photograph. Stopping for one and then looking back behind (as all good photographers should do) meant that this view of the Mannanana Range was also on offer.

Looking back (West) towards Docker River.

More hard packed sand as we sped along at 70-80 km/h before we arrived at the Hull River Crossing and Lasseters Cave. Taking the turnoff just over the river, we easily covered the half a kilometre to the carpark where before walking the short distance to the cave.

The sign says it all.

Lasseters Cave, which when the fiver is in flood would also be flooded.

Leaving the cave, the small picnic ground and two nearby abandoned buildings we made our way back onto the CGR and turned East once more. The road was quite good for the most part but each river crossing we came to (and there were four) was a crossing in fairly deep river sand around small pools of water left over from the last flow.

The other river crossings were similar to this and it would be a more interesting crossing with more water to play in. Then, if you made it out of the water the soft red sand on the other side might be a problem, in the wet.

This guy ran across the road to stop and pose for us, but as soon as the shutter went, he was off!

One of a few sand traps along the way. Fairly easy to negotiate but 4wd is handy.

Before long the scenery changed back to a more open terrain, the sand dunes with their bright red sand and the desert oaks standing tall, and then, as we came across a rise or two our first glimpse of the Olga's came into view.

The Olga's poking their head out of the horizon.

A few more kilometres and we were right near The Olga's, the GCR coming out not far from the carpark for what is a terrific walk around one of Australia's great attractions.

The Olga's as seen from the GCR.

The end of this part of the road for us, but the start if you are heading to WA.

Arriving at the bitumen we stopped to air up the tyres and grab a bit of lunch before continuing on to Yulara, passing Uluru or Ayers Rock, depending on your point of view.

Back on the hard stuff and an approach shot of the rock.

Pulling into Yulara we did some shopping, filled up with fuel ($1.90 per litre), emptied the black and grey water at the dump point and then headed out to the gravel pit we used for our overnight stops the last time we were here.

27 February 2017

Our gravel pit stop was another good one, empty when we arrived but two vehicles coming in after dark made it three. One departed and the other, a sedan with two men, one woman and three very young kids set up camp, well sort of. Lots of yelling and screaming at the kids and then when the kids gave up and went to sleep, there was peace for the rest of the night.

The view out of the bathroom window this morning.

Waking this morning it appears that our campers had some blow up mattresses and the car to sleep in. The kids were up and crying and the adults just verbally abusing them. The chicken and egg routine of adults yelling for the kids to shut up just making the kids cry more and the adults yelling some more. A look out the window showed kids in plastic nappies running around while one of the adults tossed the dirty nappy into the grass, before they bundled some stuff and the kids into the car and drove off towards Yulara.

As we pulled out of the gravel pit we could see one deflated mattress and two still inflated sitting in the middle of a pile of mess, litter and goodness knows what, the open can of baked beans with a spoon sticking out of it the remains of a hurried breakfast and now the delight of the ants. Well, it wasn't the backpackers or the grey nomads that left that mess, it was some traditional owners and custodians of the land that they profess to love so much.

We passed through more sand dune and desert oak tree country, past the Curtain Springs Station and then decided to take a dirt road to see if we could get to Mount Connor. From the road Mount Connor looks like it sits about 20 km's away and so with a dirt road (Mulga Park Road) heading that direction is was a reasonable assumption we would find something. We stopped a small car coming from the direction we were going to head to see if they could tell us anything, but the only word I understood from this elderly Japanese couple " Japanese". I thanked them anyway and we went our separate ways.

So after 20 kilometres of a dirt road and passing a small range we were no closer to our desired target so reluctantly turned back and rejoined the highway, stopping on the tallest crest to get a shot of Mount Connor. We later read that Mount Connor sits on the Curtin Station and you can take guided tours to it in their vehicle. So that answered that question then.

Tantalisingly close, Mount Connor sits majestically commanding the area around it.

We continued on until we came to a small 24 hour camp we named Desert Oaks and set up camp for the rest of the day.

28 February 2017

Once again our Desert Oaks campsite proved to be a good one, and we had it all to ourselves overnight. Leaving this morning on what was to be another hot day we were grateful for the climate control in the car.

We had a fairly uneventful drive and turned off towards Kings Canyon on the Red Centre Way. The drive through here fairly bland, but the closer we got to Kings Canyon the better it got as we followed a long rocky ridge, with it's ups and downs in the rock like waves and the occasional break where the water and wind had broken it down and there was now small interesting looking canyons.

Taking the turnoff to Kathleen Springs we followed the short bitumen road in and parked in the biggest spot that would accommodate our length. In fact, looking at the other spots there are no more for caravans or long vehicles other than the one buses. Two problems with that though, one, it is very, very narrow and two, if you get the rear spot you have to wait for everyone else to leave because you can't get past. Maybe that is why they have toilets and free gas BBQ's there, for while you wait.

We took the winding bitumen path through the waist high vegetation, which recent rain had helped to grow. Passing the old horse trap yard and the old water tank location we arrived at the viewing platform. The water was okay, but not too much to write about and certainly not as full as the last time we were there. Low enough in fact to stop the flow down the small creek.

Passing the turnoff to Kings Canyon we reflected on our past visit, and how hot it would be walking the rim on a day like today. We pulled into the resort area, toped up with fuel ($2.01 per litre), paid our $5.50 for our 3 day permit to traverse the road and made our way out onto the road again

With the view of the Kings Canyon Range behind us the bitumen ran out after 15km's and we were back on the gravel, but a good gravel road at that, but it did deteriorate after a while, the washouts still requiring us to slow down for them to avoid damage to the rig. Then, after 27 km's we found he bitumen again as we climbed Morris Pass and pulled into the rocky, uneven, dirt that serves both as a lookout, and a recognised 24 hr camp spot. Selecting the best spot for us, and where there was a good breeze, we set up camp.

Set up and lunch over it was time for a look at the view. Below us we could see the winding road as it came up the pass and we could follow the dirt road back towards Kings Canyon as it sits way off in the distance.

Looking back to the range that Kings Canyon is part of.

Our campsite at the top of the pass as the sun goes down.

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Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.

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